you want to work on phasing out the treats in the first 5 seconds, so that the reinforcement will be based on 5 seconds of nose in the muzzle. You have just took the first step for you dog to hold their nose in the muzzle for 5 seconds. The pause.one thousand and one.and a final treat IF your dog stayed in the muzzle. soon as dog puts nose in.one, two, three, four, five treats give at about 1 second intervals, do the best you can. Hold muzzle in one hand, with something to lure your dog into the muzzle already in the muzzle. So, now you want to get your dog to hold their nose in the muzzle. holding nose in the muzzle for any length of time is an additional skill. So just seeing, having it move towards, poking nose in are all independent skills that build on each other. treats happen where you want the dog "to be" at this point. give second, third, fourth treat while nose is in muzzle. Muzzle in hand, with bit of food in muzzle luring dog into muzzle. do not deliver the reinforcement when your dog has backed out, otherwise you are reinforcing the back out of the muzzle vs putting face in to muzzle.Įxample of break down of pieces to train. I like to use 5 one after the other and always given through the muzzle. Does that earn one treat or more than one? The answer should be more than one. for example, your dogs pokes their nose into the muzzle. lots of possible small steps in there that can be paired with LOTS of SUPER YUMMY TREATs and this is a training that you do not want to be stingy with. Next you do want to break down putting on the muzzle and security. your dog learns to associate the muzzle with good treats and fun time with you. this is related to classical and/or respondent conditioning) really helps with the training. So building what is called a Conditioned Emotional Response (or CER. option 1.uncomfortable thing "slapped" on dog or option 2, it predicts SUPPER YUMMY TREATs. So, what does this object we call a muzzle predict to your dog and thus become associated with. Muzzle in hand moving just a bit towards the face, SUPER YUMMY TREAT. muzzle laying on the ground, dog pokes at it.SUPER YUMMY TREAT. So taking into account what just the muzzle in your hand, or it's appearance or it moving towards your dog's face predicts is definitely something to factor into your training. the degree to which differs depending on the muzzle. the restriction of breathing, drinking, barking etc. Having something like a muzzle can be uncomfortable. which leads to the tendency to just "pop" the muzzle on, which results in early "success" followed by resistance in future attempts to place the muzzle on. When needs like this come up, they often come with the "I need this trained YESTERDAY" urgency. Now you know what gets your dog's attention and will likely work for. does your dog start offering behaviors, or behaving on some manner that suggests "more please". just give a bit of a bite of something dog safe, but real food and watch the reaction. For example, you can do a heck of a lot of training with plain cooked chicken breast without your dog getting a lot of weight gaining calories.Īudition different food items with your dog. Real food is often cheaper, as well as healthier in most cases. When it comes to using food, don't focus on what you can buy from the pet store, often dog safe real food is the actual good stuff from the dog's perspective. Click to expand.Judy has gotten you off to a good start.
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